Check out: Swanson SVB48M 48-Inch Savage Magnetic Professional Box Beam Level with Gel End Cap

Swanson SVB48M 48-Inch Savage Magnetic Professional Box Beam Level with Gel End Cap

Swanson SVB48M 48-Inch Savage Magnetic Professional Box Beam Level with Gel End Cap
The SAVAGE Box Beam Level is the ultimate in accuracy and durability. The Box Beam Level is called such due to the construction of the frame. If you were to cut one in half, you would see the rectangular construction that gives these type of spirit levels the ultimate in durability. The Box Beam Level is also available in multiple sizes, non-magnetic, and illuminated.

  • Continuous Dual Rail Frame
  • 029-Degree Vial Accuracy
  • Super-Strong Neodymium Magnets
  • Gelshock End Caps

List Price: $ 99.99

Price: $ 47.62 – If you could grasp the basics of this concept, it could help you lay out and measure more things in less time…
Video Rating: 0 / 5

Click here for more Measuring & Layout info.

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20 Responses to “Check out: Swanson SVB48M 48-Inch Savage Magnetic Professional Box Beam Level with Gel End Cap”

  1. stairbuilding

    I knew I was missing something, but they all first grade teachers, share this information with their students?

  2. soundslikebstome

    just paying attention in first grade math could have alleviated this process.

  3. stairbuilding

    I can’t argue with that, that’s fantastic advice. For rough carpentry, you can use the methods suggested in this video, but if you’re looking for precision, then it wouldn’t be a bad idea to look into purchasing some type of a saw like a radial arm saw with a table that you can clamp a stop to, to cut each piece exactly.

  4. OldSaintRidiculous

    If your rough cutting its fine but if you need more than 2 pieces you wait to measure until your other pieces are already cut, that’s the only real way to get a precise measurement for multiple pieces from a single board.

  5. stairbuilding

    That’s a good idea, but what happens when you need three or more pieces. I’ll be the first one to admit that this isn’t going to provide you with the exact same size every single time, but it’s close enough.

  6. AKtrav78

    Well I get it, this is great for a layout I guess, but if I need two pieces, I measure off the other side of the board, and cut from the waste side of both lines. Otherwise your second piece will be shorter, because of the cut thickness.

  7. bob pigkiller

    why don’t you add a foot and subtract two ,no wait addtwo feet and subtract 12 inches , am I explaining this right? if you go to the nearest whole number and subtract half an inch then divide by six then multiply by 1.324 or… you could just add the two numbers together like any normal person would do, you must be an engineer

  8. Clarke Smith

    That’s what I thought! LOL! That was the funniest video on building I’ve seen frankly. ?

  9. stairbuilding

    That sounds like another video. I will try and make a video as soon as I possibly can, explaining how to make precision measurements with a measuring tape. However, I think you’re going to be better off, marking everything on the same side or directly in the center. You should avoid making one mark on the left side and then the next one on the right side of the measuring tape marking increments, if you’re looking for precision.

  10. signupsigma

    For the most accurate measurements, I’d like to know if there is a standard on how to handle the ” line thickness ” on the measuring tape. For instance, if you’re measuring one inch and you want to be spot on, without any error, would you measure from the center of one line to the center of the other line? Or do you measure from either side of one line to either side of the other line. Such precission isn’t necessary, but it’s good to know if I want to be THAT accurate.

  11. stairbuilding

    That’s strange, just the other day someone told me I was two tools short, but who’s counting.

  12. MrFlynnytwo

    Your one tool short of a full tool box

  13. 0WhiteDwarf

    makes total sense, it’s more like gauging in a way. but until you get into triple digits the math should be no sweat. doubling/tripling 32nd measurements shouldn’t be hard either.

  14. stairbuilding

    Point taken… That’s one of the reasons why I made the video, because this is what works for me. It isn’t going to work for everyone.

  15. Casey Cornelius

    Classy Casey, wood critic here. Wait a minute. I add two inches, no,no. I double my original measurement, no,no. For Christ sake, man, it’s what ever gets the job done. On to the next video.

  16. TheSnappyfingers


    American carpenters tend not to think in decimals and no carpenters think in thirds. you are splitting 64ths at that point. Your house settles more than that in a given year.

    when there more complex figuring to do such as stair layout calculators are used.

  17. stairbuilding

    I know it seems like you would, but as long as you cut on the same side of the line, it should be close enough for rough framing. I’ve been doing this for years and with the new saw blades, the years of cutting a quarter of an inch out of a board, with a circular saw, could be over with.

  18. denver wilson

    you will be a 1/4 inch off when your done. (saw blade)

  19. brian Frustaglio

    Sorry, but you are wrong about not addding the 1/8″. Even if you cut the same side of the line only your first cut will be the true measurement, the rest will be 1/8″ less than the first cut made. frnkjones40 is correct on this one.

  20. stairbuilding

    I guess it’s a little of both, yet lacking neither. You see in the video I’m using a measuring tape, along with a little simplified method for adding or multiply numbers together. I didn’t mention fractions, because I didn’t want to over complicate the simplicity of this trick or should I say technique. Thanks a lot for your positive support.

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